mael wrote:Anyway ... Will a semi-automatic m/cycle clutch likely come right after an oil change? (Buggered if I want to replace the clutch if I don't have to).
Ninor wrote:Hey Mael,
How ya doin'?
What's probably happened is that you're running an oil with Moly in it ... Moly and wet clutches don't get along too well causing the clutch to slip.
When you change your oil make sure that you don't get a brand with the "Energy Conserving" logo/label on it because it means it has Moly in it.
If that doesn't help, then chances are you need new clutch plates. If that's the case let me know and I'll point you in the right direction to get a good deal on them and tell you how to properly prepare them before you install them.
greeney2 wrote:Does the oil smell like burned clutch material? If its real burned smelling, which you won't be able to miss, could be it needs new friction plates. Changing oil couldn;t hurt to try first.
If it really got hot slipping, could have warped things inside.
Most clutches are several flat steel plates between flat friction plates, with a spring loaded pressure plate.
Some cyntrifical clutches have spring loaded fiber plates that fling outward to contact a drum, similar to brake drums.
I'm not sure what type yours is. Sounds like you adjusted it right, as long as you are sure when you locked down the nut, the stud wasn;t contacting and beginning to disengage the clutch. I don't recall exactly how they worked but, those models didn't have clutch levers or clutch cables, so is there some mechanism in the shift lever/shift shaft assembly that disengages the clutch, that is a separate adjustment?
It may all work by engine RPM, or it could have a mechanical system built into the shifting mechanism.
When it comes to this kind of stuff, we can get along.
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